Clients will always ask me if they need to wash their hair before they come in for a hair color service. And I am not talking about cement, mud on the hair and scalp. The answer is no. Hair color, perms, highlights, are all chemical services that are done in the salon and only in the salon. A buildup of oils, dirts in the hair will not be able to overcome the chemical strength of hair color or bleaches, or perms. They will not alter the chemical process of lifting or altering the hair structure of the chemicals being used in the service. in fact when clients come in to have a hair color service and the hair is wet the only thing that will cause a problem is the time spent blow drying the hair to proceed with the hair coloring service. And that is a fact Jack! Dirty hair (second day, third day is fine) makes it easier for the colorist to place foils in your hair. The natural oils also help protect your scalp from possible irritation the color could cause. Hair color is stronger than oils, and dandruff, dirty hair. etc.. Hair is a chemical and I have seen it clear off the scalp of and all natural oils and day to day grease and grime.
*EXCEPTION – The only exception to NEVER shampoo rule is chlorine. If you go swimming in a chlorinated pool the day of your color appointment, you must shampoo the chlorine out or there could be some funky results when the color reacts with the chlorine!
Single-process color can appear flat and one-dimensional. To avoid this, Joseph Kellner suggests layering several variations of scarlet over each other: It reads as one color, but it’s full of texture—it doesn’t feel like a block of red. Mixed one color for your clients scalp area and a lighter version of that for the rest of her head. Then added fine brownish-red lowlights throughout and put subtle highlights on her ends so that they don’t look too inky. For a believable red you want to stay within your natural base color. If you’re a dark blond, golden copper is good because there are undertones of that in your hair already; if you’re a light brunette, opt for copper; if you’re a medium brunette, think auburn. There’s nothing prettier than a child’s sunny copper hair—it has so much dimension. When you are hair coloring never choose a level 3 levels lighter than your base color. You will acheive a financial commitment you are not ready for.
Instead of choosing hair color based on someone’s skin tone, I focus on their eyes. If you have yellow in your eyes—a golden brown or hazel—think warm reds. If your eyes are black-brown or pale blue, go cooler. The reasoning for playing up peepers instead of skin. A lot of natural redheads have a pinkish complexion, but then others have a more golden one. People always find ways to modify their skin tone, whether it’s tinted moisturizer or self-tanner. For the ideal eye-enhancing shade of red, I recommends holding different colored hair swatches up to your forehead. Then, once you decide on your favorites, have your colorist do test strands.
Red is one of the most difficult colors to keep; it fades ultra fast, so you’ll want to use a pigment-protecting product with UV filters. It’s also one of the most difficult colors to get away from. Red tends to leave a residue, especially on blond hair. Be willing to stay with a warmer version of whatever your color was before. Even if you were originally a brunette, you’re going to have an underlying red tone for a bit.
While infusing your hair with red takes a few hours, I don’t recommend stripping the hair. Wait until your hair has faded before going to the salon—you want Mother Nature to help you get back to where you want to go. Once you finally do visit the salon, I like to start with a gentle professional product to take the red out, then have you come back in after a day or two to apply a more intensive chemical remover. And what ever shade of red haircolor you choose, please remember to use Salon hair care for your artificial hair color. Joseph Kellner Salon in Orlando, Florida 32836.
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