Tag: hair

Consumer Hairdressing Terminology!

~ Joseph Kellner

Talking to your client is very important, any mis-communication can translate to a very bad cut and haircolor. Here are definitions to avoid a hair style malfunction next time!

Texturize: In cutting terms, this means giving a blunt or pure form shape, so there are different lengths and movement.

Graduation: A build up of weight, 45 degrees from the head shape. This technique can be done in different ways like around face (face framing), at the nape (stacked/angled bob), or side swept bangs. When this technique is utilized, it gives movement and structure to your cut.

Jooge: In the fashion world, this means detailing — rubbing the hair between my fingers for texture, or at the roots for a extra lift.

Fringe: Bangs

Point Cut: When the scissors are used to cut hair vertically instead of horizontally. This will give you a “piecey” look.

Edgy: Trendy, non-conventional, or extreme. Shapes may include choppy.

Gisele Waves: Gisele Bundchen’s waves. Stylists refer to Gisele when we mean loose, tousled waves. It’s more about the movement instead of volume.

Dusting: Cutting the most minimal amount of hair, otherwise known as the slightest trim for those who are nervous to get a haircut.

Upsweep: Loosely gathering hair on the top of the head. This look is ideal for the gym, summer weather, or for protecting hair from rainy weather.

Faux Hawk: An edgy look; a messier version of a mohawk.

Chemical Cut: Hair so over-processed that it breaks and looks as though it has been cut.

 Busted: Hair that’s overworked, over-processed, and damaged.

Blunt: A haircut that is all one length – can be short or long.

Razored: A sharp, edgy haircut created with a razor, instead of scissors.

Bed Head: Often worn down, this style is a sexy look that makes it look like you effortlessly just arrived to the party and didn’t have time to style your hair. A very appealing and natural hairdo.

 

Is every 4 weeks enough for your haircolor?

~ Joseph Kellner
 
In a world of highlights and lowlights, it can be tough to know how often you should actually color your hair. But because both dye and bleach are potentially damaging,  it’s important to learn the rules. If you have a lot of gray hair and are dying it a dark hue, you’ll probably need to go in for a touch up about every three weeks. But remember hair growth rules. Everyone grows nails, facial hair, toenails at a different speed.  In the same vein, if you have virgin or naturally dark hair (like brown or black) and dye it a light color (like blonde), you’ll need to tint it more often. Ultimately though, it all comes down to how much your newgrowth really bothers you.

Only dye your hair one color as opposed to highlighting it? Then the suggested wait time by both colorist and manufacturer is approximately four weeks. By that time the color has faded and/or oxidized. However, some clients choose to come in sooner (or hold off a bit longer) depending on how bad their newgrowth is. While highlights are a little subjective usually they’ll need to be touched up anywhere from every six to ten weeks. How much lighter you go from your natural color and how heavy or natural the pieces are woven in will determine where you fall within that timeline.

If you have highlights and also base color I recommend getting them done together first, then four weeks later you should do your base color only. So basically, every four weeks touch up your base, and ever eight weeks do your base and highlight. Multi- dimensional hair colors (highlights and lowlights) ensure a very natural look and will make your roots way less obvious as hair grows out.  The process might be more expensive but hey, the good news is, it lasts twice as long!

Hair color advice from a professional!

To help ease the damage of frequent coloring read these ideas for helping you with your hair color.

1. If you have a one tone hair color, use a permanent hair color on your new growth. Permanent  hair color often contains ammonia and can be more damaging, so refresh the rest of your hair with a semi permanent/ demi permanent hair color to add shine. This will also allow the hair to regain strength!

2. If you are more of a bleach blonde client, you can wait about six to eight weeks for a touch up, especially if your base is a lighter color naturally. When you do go in for a touch up, make sure your stylist never pulls the bleach down over previously lightened hair. This causes major damage and breakage. I just hate doing a photo shoot and having my model’s hair only 2 inches on the top.

Finally, to help push a few more days or weeks in between colorings, you can indulge in a color enhancing shampoos, but be careful a lot of the shampoos and conditioners are direct dyes. A direct dye is a preformed hair color molecule that act like a stain. What you put on the hair is what you will get with these products.